From the training
Understanding before the three Ds
The trainer explains that distance, duration and distraction are increased after the dog understands and responds consistently to the verbal cue, rather than depending on extra guidance. The challenge then grows gradually.
Kali & Kane · Training lesson
The answer
Because a command is not one thing. It has difficulty dials on it, and every time you change one you have made it a different exercise. The trainers use the standard three - distance, how far you are from him; duration, how long you ask him to hold it; distraction, what else is going on - and the rule attached to them is stated plainly: you add one at a time, and you do not add the next until the first one is good. One trainer names them to a family and says in the same breath that he does not love the name, but it is what they call them, and that duration is where they start. The clearest is the ground. Dogs that drop into a down instantly on grass will not do it on a concrete slab, and it turns out not to be defiance - the slab is hot, or hard, or simply not what the command has ever been asked on. So the first downs get taught on grass on purpose and moved to concrete later, and when a down suddenly falls apart in a new place the handler runs the surface as a live experiment rather than turning the collar up. One handler tests the ground with his own hand before asking a dog to sit on it. Gradient is another: uphill, downhill and uneven ground change the mechanics of a heel, and the trainer who found that out said on camera that he had not thought of it. Pace is a fourth - a dog can hold a slow heel and lag on a fast one. How much room there is to escape is a fifth, and it is the one that decides whether a first meeting between two dogs is survivable: outdoors, where either can leave, is easier than a room, where neither can. How close the handler is standing is a sixth, and it is not the same as distance-as-proofing: one dog in this record wants to be touching her handler, so being asked to work three feet away is genuinely hard, and that is affection rather than resistance. And the dog's own state counts - one handler deliberately walks a tired dog past people to find out whether fatigue improves her impulse control or destroys it. Whether the handler is in sight: Roxy's place is proofed with the trainer behind a closed door, 'looking through the little door hole', and Dory's stay with the handler walking out of view; Callie holds a cot with the handler out of the house. The particular events of a home: Akira's place is proofed against a knock at the door, people walking about, a meal, petting and the handler leaving, one at a time, with all four feet on the cot as the criterion. For a heel, precision replaces distance, 'because this command is in motion' (Ace). And the world as the distraction supply: Bandit's trainer takes passing dogs and a deer as proofing repetitions ('as many organic opportunities as possible'), and Josephine sits before every road crossing. Neo's trainer adds the other half of the surface finding: proof on the hard surface until 'it started to carry over into the gravel'. Roman's owners are told the principle in general form: a dog learns a command is 'obligated here too' one place at a time.
The 30 Sep footage adds the fullest lecture on the three in the record, and with it the first numbers for how long. On a park walk with Kane the trainer names distraction as 'one of the three D's', then distance and duration, and gives benchmarks: a sit for 30 seconds, 45 seconds or a minute - 'normally you don't need your dog to sit much longer than that' - and a down that can be held for at least two or three minutes. The three 'can be dialed up like levels all together', or each one separately, and he keeps generalisation apart from them as a matter of context: where you are and what you are doing. For a heel, he says, distance is really duration, because the dog is meant to be at your side (Ace's file says the same in other words). At Kali's second owner lesson the same three are explained to the family, with a heel goal of a couple of minutes. The dials are then seen turned one at a time: a down at a volleyball game with 'a little bit of distance and duration and distraction', and later a down where he 'didn't do a lot of duration a lot of distance' because he only wanted the distraction (Kali); a down held while the trainer walks the full length of a field, or of a bridge, with his back turned (Kali, Bandit); and passers-by, a stroller and a child used as the distraction on a greenway, where Beo's trainer says he is raising the criteria now that Beo knows the commands. Kali also adds another dog to the surface finding: on two evenings she would not lie down on concrete, and the trainer, having seen her do it 'here on the grass', concluded it was 'just a surface problem'.
A wider reading of every session note that tags the idea shows the three named to families across the whole program, from Milo's lesson in November 2025 to the September sessions. The rule comes with them: 'you only add one at a time' (Lunna), 'so you can increase one at a time' (Milo). Two trainers widen the frame. Penny's handler names 'the three d's and the two c's', and Thumper's spells the Cs out as context and client proofing. Levi's trainer places the Ds in the third of three phases - learning, clarity, proofing. Distraction is graded by venue in plain terms: a quiet room is low, a park is medium, a store like Home Depot is high (Ozzy). Zeus's last week moves from the park, where he already does everything, to stores. Bane's trainer contrasts the backyard with Times Square. One trainer adds a priority: in a quiet setting duration is cheap, because 'if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour', so distraction is 'the big one' (Josi). Handler out of sight recurs as its own test: Bernie's down in a store, Fiona's place through a gate and two doors, Piglet's down with the trainer's back turned. The handlers also show when not to raise a dial. Drago's trainer will not push the stay if the down is struggling. Lucia is not asked for a down she does not know near a distraction. Thumper is kept away from a friendly dog because 'we're not there yet'. Two more of the uncounted variables turn up: speed and turns on a heel (Whiskey - 'just because they can do it at a fast pace, doesn't mean they can do it at a slow pace'), and gravel as a surface (Chunk).
The thing to take from all of it is a diagnostic habit rather than a list. When a command fails, the first question is not whether he is being stubborn; it is which dial just moved. Very often it is one you did not know you had turned. What is inferred rather than said: nobody on film gives a complete list, and nobody explains why duration comes first (Major's trainer simply starts there).
Angier K9 is a family-owned, play-based Board & Train serving Angier, Raleigh and the Triangle, with three full owner lessons.
What to do
Raise one thing at a time, and let it get good before you raise the next. Start with duration - a little longer, in the same spot, with you standing where you were. Then distance. Then distraction. If a command he knows suddenly fails, do not turn anything up: ask what changed. Check the ground with your own hand, because hot or hard surfaces stop a down more often than stubbornness does. Check whether you are further away, closer, walking faster, on a slope, in a smaller room, or whether he is simply tired. Change that one thing back, get the repetition, and then put it back in on purpose.
What the trainers say
incrementally well I don't love was it's the three D's I feel like there's got to be a better name for that but it's what they call it and you add distance duration and distraction you don't and you don't add to you always like until one's good then you add another one so what we start with is duration
plenty of time to reset where he can now do this. He can reset, do whatever he's going to do. Um, walk all around, follow me around, get some pets, uh, listen to me yap to the camera. Um, if we're on a walk, go sniff everything. And then only after that reset has happened and he's completely back to baseline, I can try again and raise the criteria. Right? So then he thinks he's figured it out each time and then I raise the criteria again by increasing duration or increasing distraction. And over time you have a heel that is more and more solid.
Or starting to add the three D's this inspiration distraction to his
there because then by the time i take the dog out the impulse control is better and we can start like adding more things like i can add distance right we can have more people eventually we walk by dogs stuff like that
Enjoy a little freedom until we do another session with that, and if she seems that she's doing good each time, then we can up the kites for you, maybe do a little longer, do abrupt That stops, go fast, slow, just to really improve it.
Yeah, you can do the duration and distraction fairly quickly and then add duration.
Whereas with him, I'm literally just having to do duration and then start super close.
no respect for me, she won't do it. Also, I start on the grass because dogs sometimes won't down unless they're on the grass at first until they really know the command and then I start doing it on the concrete.
I've never done it on concrete before.
Yeah, for some reason, she's fighting me a little more than she was the Other day. Actually, she did a couple downs in her session and went into it Really quick. So that's very weird.
go it's just in the concrete Luna down okay she prefers the grass which is I mean it makes sense it's hot
because the concrete's hot um i needed to do a couple reps on there but she's got to know like
It's important to get the dogs to go on with the commands on concrete and then like other places too,
All right, so he has a thing where he doesn't, some dogs, they're weird about it, you have to do it in the grass first.
what I wonder is maybe he didn't want to do it on this blacktop yeah so I moved him over to the pretty hot to the grass and he was a little bit quicker to do it he still resisted a little bit but then but then he got a little faster so So I think it might've been the blacktop was a big part of the problem, fair.
It's not that hot, I already tested it.
I hadn't thought about that, proofing for, um, for downhill and uphill, or like uneven ground, because that can definitely change, especially the the way that a dog does heel
because he knows the heel but he's uh if i speed up faster he um he falls behind he's not forging
inside is normally higher tension yeah because there's no they can't really get away from each other yeah there's no real there's no real retreat option there's just tension from anyone else in the room as well yeah they need to be able to handle tension amongst each other
she's trying she really is she's got to learn you cannot be that close to me
because she's fine with duration if I'm close to her, right? For all everything. So, it really is the distance part.
The dog's tired, the impulse control is worse, so if you can get a dog to, sometimes it's really good, and sometimes you can't control the impulse anymore, so I want to see what she does when she's tired,
So the three-step process for teaching the heel is one, step one is you teach them where the heel is, right, the position relative to your body. And then number two, you teach him that, you know, that position moves, right, heel moves, and it's his job to fix it, right, he has to keep the heel. And then the third is that after he knows the position and he knows that it's his job to stay in it when it's moving, then you try to shake him out of the position. And you give consequences, positive and negative, when he keeps the position.
he knows where like to go he knows the heel entry and he knows to stay in that spot the heel motion so then it's just about reinforcing it consistently and proofing it under distractions
because like at first you know like at the facility in the training room in the training yard places like this um and then like walking trails in parks and stuff like that where he's going to see other dogs and stuff but it's a bigger more open area and then i start towards the end of the program we go to stores
All my criteria was that he stopped when I stopped.
I might have been a little bit too high on the criteria end there.
Okay, good boy. Good heel. Good job. Lower the criteria a little bit. Let's go. Come on, Bo.
He's very distracted here.
So, that was actually a little bit bigger test than what we did before we pulled it.
once he entered the picture he like his his control went down a lot so I have to
the dude did engage with him of course so i'm not like gonna make that like a punishment because the dude did like actively engage with him was like here you buddy so like i'm not gonna punish that per se but it definitely could use some more proofing
so we wanna make sure that even when he's tired, the rules are still really clear to him
So we're just making her heal longer and longer in different areas so that she learns no matter what's going on she has to do it for however long we ask is the idea
Alright so Kings done really good on like holding his command for a longer duration with distractions more distractions there were dogs walking by and stuff like that this whole time a little far away that they were walking but still good to see
That's exactly what I want to see. The temptation part. You need temptations.
I'm going to run towards the ball this time. He did good. He stayed on place.
he did it he did a full turn he didn't panic he didn't freak out he stayed with it yes mmm that makes me so happy
So the position moves and it's your job to fix it, not mine. I don't have to worry about trying to keep you in heel. You have to worry about trying to keep yourself there.
try to get a try to get progress in without you know scarring the dogs it's always a good idea but just you know just i don't want her to learn that coming out here training is a miserable experience and i'm gonna drag you along in the heat right uh we don't want that
I think of it as like three phases right so you have like inside behavior maybe like backyard and then you have like out and about stores hikes
what we all look for in any command we do is that anxious stare where you're like specifically looking for the stair needs to go away. You can be a little nervous, but you got to actually learn how to settle. And until that happens, it's not really a smooth rep of the command.
she's learned it to a relatively good extent so this is a different environment proofing it out here in public smoother more quick on verbal only
Gotta practice those kinds of things, you know? Gotta proof it with distractions.
more intense and distracted situations, and you can see it's kind of like a reset. Whereas
So he does good with sit when you're next to him, right, when you start walking away that's supposed to be a thing with some dogs, they just are not a fan of the way you step away from them.
So like maybe I'll have a conversation I'll get like really animate and do all this kind of stuff really trying to distract the dog
Because this command is in motion, unlike a sit, or a place, or a down.
looking for as many organic opportunities as possible to proof their
Things like knocking on the door. Things like, you know, walking around. People,
but once i proofed it enough in there then it started to carry over into the gravel
Well, maybe over there, it's like, hey, down. And he doesn't do it. And then I got to go a little harder. And then he goes into the down. And then he learns, oh, wait, it's obligated here too.
I just happen to be looking through the little door hole this time when she went to get off Now she thinks that I'm all seeing just what we want
generalization is different kinds of distractions that's one of the three D's
down um i always want to make sure that they can stay in a down for at least two or three minutes, right?
So those three can be dialed up like levels all together.
So you can dial up each variable separately.
like you can teach a dog a command initially but then you still have to proof it and generalize it
didn't do a lot of duration a lot of distance i just was looking for a little bit of distraction
I'm gonna start proofing it with higher distraction levels more distance more
and this is a nice long duration of me walking away with my back turned so it's a good indication
in dog training no all right duration distance and distraction okay you only add one at a time
So you can increase one at a time.
like if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour right so what's more important is that
and distraction especially distraction is gonna be the big one so I'm gonna do
proofing phase during the proofing phase we add more distractions durations and
medium distraction and then any kind of store where there's like home depot right like tons
are working on his distance, durations, distractions, context, and the last C is for client proofing,
Just because they can do it at a fast pace, doesn't mean they can do it at a slow pace
he's at if I see he's kind of struggling a little bit with the down then I I won't push the implied
the reliability and how you start to proof the commands is you focus on those three d's distance
How it looks, dog by dog
Stormie
Stormie's file is where the concept is named out loud to a family, and where the trainer says he does not like the name. The three Ds - distance, duration, distraction - with the rule attached: you do not add the second until the first one is good, and duration is where they start. She holds place for about ten minutes, which he calls a goal time, and he says that now is when the distractions come in. An earlier part of the same lesson gives the order concretely: place work first because impulse control is her weak point, then distance, then more people, then walking past dogs. And her file is one of the two that force a fourth D into the list. On a hot day she downs on grass in seconds and refuses the concrete slab; the handler says outright that she is cool with the grass and does not want it on the concrete, works reps on the slab rather than around it, and two days later states it as policy - the commands have to be learned on concrete and then everywhere else. Her file also supplies the only deliberate use of the dog's own state as a variable: she is tired, so he walks her past people specifically to find out whether the tiredness helps the impulse control or breaks it.
On film
incrementally well I don't love was it's the three D's I feel like there's got to be a better name for that but it's what they call it and you add distance duration and distraction you don't and you don't add to you always like until one's good then you add another one so what we start with is duration
i think the longest i've had her stay on place successfully was about 10 minutes or so which is really great that's like a goal time usually that i go for
there because then by the time i take the dog out the impulse control is better and we can start like adding more things like i can add distance right we can have more people eventually we walk by dogs stuff like that
The dog's tired, the impulse control is worse, so if you can get a dog to, sometimes it's really good, and sometimes you can't control the impulse anymore, so I want to see what she does when she's tired,
Luna
Luna is where the surface stops being an observation and becomes an experiment. Her down is fluent; in a new place, on concrete she has never been asked to lie on, she fights it. The trainer says he has never done it on concrete before, notes that she did a couple of quick downs in her session the other day and calls the difference very weird, and then moves her onto grass to find out whether the ground is what she is arguing with. Her first owner lesson had already stated the principle - start on grass, because dogs sometimes will not down unless they are on grass until they really know the command, then move to concrete - and a third session confirms it in the plainest possible terms, that she prefers the grass, which makes sense, because it is hot. The same lesson carries the companion refusal, which is really a statement about hidden variables: he will not say sit before the down, even though it would put her in an easier position, because she would learn that the down needs a sit first.
On film
no respect for me, she won't do it. Also, I start on the grass because dogs sometimes won't down unless they're on the grass at first until they really know the command and then I start doing it on the concrete.
I've never done it on concrete before.
go it's just in the concrete Luna down okay she prefers the grass which is I mean it makes sense it's hot
what I'll do I don't want to say sit. That's how I get I want her to be in that position cuz it makes it easier. But I don't want to say the word because then she'll learn that I have to say like sit before she'll down.
Louie
Louie’s surface example begins with the trainer explaining that some dogs need to practice on grass first. In a later shared session with Sage, the trainer discusses Louie responding more quickly after moving from blacktop to grass. At 11:25, the discussion turns to Sage and the trainer reports having tested the ground’s temperature. Another Louie session contrasts his heel when traveling somewhere with practice in the training yard, which the trainer identifies as an area to keep proofing.
On film
All right, so he has a thing where he doesn't, some dogs, they're weird about it, you have to do it in the grass first.
It's not that hot, I already tested it.
doing good better when he's out and about um he doesn't do as good with it in the training yard same thing with the heel he does better with the heel when he's out and about and we're actually going somewhere um he doesn't like it very much when we're in the training yard and we're just kind of like walking but that's why i'm trying to proof it there so that he kind of gets it here
we're starting to layer over like some of the obedience with the distractions
Sage
Sage's set gives the heel ladder as a plan - a little longer, then abrupt stops, then fast and slow - and makes the sequencing explicit: another session first, and only if she is doing well each time do the criteria go up. Her intake description names which two of the three she was missing: no command at verbal-only fluency, no duration, and off the command at any distraction. A down is slow; the handler wonders whether it is the blacktop; he moves the dog to the grass; it gets quicker; he concludes that the surface was a big part of the problem. That is a hypothesis, a test and a revised conclusion inside ninety seconds, said out loud, about something that would ordinarily be filed as stubbornness.
On film
Enjoy a little freedom until we do another session with that, and if she seems that she's doing good each time, then we can up the kites for you, maybe do a little longer, do abrupt That stops, go fast, slow, just to really improve it.
what I wonder is maybe he didn't want to do it on this blacktop yeah so I moved him over to the pretty hot to the grass and he was a little bit quicker to do it he still resisted a little bit but then but then he got a little faster so So I think it might've been the blacktop was a big part of the problem, fair.
she just didn't know any commands um to any real level of fluency um where where she could do them uh with verbal only and then without like breaking the command um like she couldn't stand them for like duration, right? Um, and then the other major one was um like uh if there was any kind of distraction or anything like that, then she'd get off.
Dolce
Dolce's file adds gradient, and the way it is added is the most honest moment in this concept. Mid-session, off leash, on uneven ground, the handler asks for level ground and then says he had not thought about that - proofing for downhill and uphill, or uneven ground, because it can definitely change the way a dog does a heel. A variable discovered live, named, and folded into the list by somebody who could simply have moved on. Her owner lesson gives the standard version alongside it: the heel is made longer and longer in different areas, so that she learns that no matter what is going on she has to hold it for however long she is asked. And a later session raises distance to its limit by the handler leaving the scene entirely, with the e-collar kept on as the only thing that can reach that far.
On film
I hadn't thought about that, proofing for, um, for downhill and uphill, or like uneven ground, because that can definitely change, especially the the way that a dog does heel
So we're just making her heal longer and longer in different areas so that she learns no matter what's going on she has to do it for however long we ask is the idea
but I'm gonna have the e-collar on her so that I can reinforce the plots more far if I need to
normally I've found in my experience that when they get up and they're far away ... they tend to Come all the way to you and down instead of staying where they're at
Dutchess
Dutchess is the case that separates two things the standard list collapses. Distance, in the proofing sense, is a difficulty dial. Proximity, for her, is a relationship: she wants to be touching her handler, so working three feet away is genuinely hard, and the trainer's reading is that she is trying - she has to learn she cannot be that close. He gets there by elimination rather than assumption, and says so: she is fine with duration if he is close to her, for everything, so it really is the distance part. The rest of her file is textbook - about twenty seconds of held down before stepping away, one criterion raised at a time, distraction added to a behaviour before duration and distance are asked for at all - and her second lesson raises distraction in one deliberate step from two easy dogs to the whole household at once, in the room where the problems live.
On film
she's trying she really is she's got to learn you cannot be that close to me
because she's fine with duration if I'm close to her, right? For all everything. So, it really is the distance part.
she's much more engaged with the environment than anything else.
Kodak
Kodak supplies two things. The standard model, said on a walk: the trainer is starting to add the three Ds to his down. And the variable that decides whether two dogs can meet safely: how much room there is to get away. Outdoors, where either dog can leave, comes first; a room removes the retreat and adds everyone else's tension, so indoors comes last.
On film
Or starting to add the three D's this inspiration distraction to his
inside is normally higher tension yeah because there's no they can't really get away from each other yeah there's no real there's no real retreat option there's just tension from anyone else in the room as well yeah they need to be able to handle tension amongst each other
he did it he did a full turn he didn't panic he didn't freak out he stayed with it yes mmm that makes me so happy
Bullet
Bullet's file has the clearest account of how a criterion gets raised, and it puts the reset in the middle of the mechanism rather than beside it: the dog gets enough time to come completely back to baseline - wander, get pets, sniff everything - and only then does the criterion go up, so that he thinks he has figured it out each time. Duration or distraction, one of them, and over time you have a heel that is more and more solid. His file also contains a variable that is not distraction: pace. He knows the heel, and if the handler speeds up he falls behind - not forging, not crowding, lagging - which is a fault only a change of speed produces. And a place hold with a cat brought up to the cot is a rare instance of the size of a step being named out loud as bigger than the last one.
On film
plenty of time to reset where he can now do this. He can reset, do whatever he's going to do. Um, walk all around, follow me around, get some pets, uh, listen to me yap to the camera. Um, if we're on a walk, go sniff everything. And then only after that reset has happened and he's completely back to baseline, I can try again and raise the criteria. Right? So then he thinks he's figured it out each time and then I raise the criteria again by increasing duration or increasing distraction. And over time you have a heel that is more and more solid.
because he knows the heel but he's uh if i speed up faster he um he falls behind he's not forging
So, that was actually a little bit bigger test than what we did before we pulled it.
um proofing like the downs and sits with like people walking by because he gets excited so like he'll down and stuff but like like i just had it back there somebody a kid walked by and he was like and he like jumped up from the down so i had to correct him from back to the down
Bo
Bo shows the dial being turned down, which is the half most owners never see. On a public trail his whole criterion for success is that he stops when the handler stops - one element, named in advance, with the distraction left high. In a busy store with two strange dogs and machinery, the trainer decides he has pitched the criteria too high, says so, gives the dog a break, and then gets the heel by lowering the criteria a little - saying that out loud as he does it. And in a crowded shopping area the environment is named as the cause of the failures rather than the dog: he is very distracted here, and the criterion shrinks to one good turn.
On film
All my criteria was that he stopped when I stopped.
I might have been a little bit too high on the criteria end there.
Okay, good boy. Good heel. Good job. Lower the criteria a little bit. Let's go. Come on, Bo.
He's very distracted here.
King
King's proofing is done with the thing he actually wants, which is what makes it count. The ball goes in a pocket, then it is thrown, then it is thrown while he is on place, then the handler runs at it himself - a distraction raised in graded steps inside one exercise, with the dog holding. The trainer's summary of a long place session names two of the three Ds together and is careful about the third variable in it: he held for a longer duration with more distractions, there were dogs walking by, a little far away, but still good to see. And the philosophy behind it is in one line - that is exactly what he wants to see, the temptation part, you need temptations.
On film
I'm going to run towards the ball this time. He did good. He stayed on place.
That's exactly what I want to see. The temptation part. You need temptations.
Alright so Kings done really good on like holding his command for a longer duration with distractions more distractions there were dogs walking by and stuff like that this whole time a little far away that they were walking but still good to see
and then you know like being able to reinforce it down when I opened the door that's another big one so at least for him because he likes to go jump as quickly as possible.
Zeus
Zeus's file states the heel as a three-stage model rather than a list of dials, and the third stage is this concept exactly: once he knows the position and knows it is his job to keep it while it moves, you try to shake him out of it, and you give consequences either way when he keeps it. The remaining work on the heel is then named as two things and no more - reinforce it consistently, and proof it under distraction. His first owner lesson gives the venue ladder that goes with it: the facility's training room and yard first, then trails and parks where he will see other dogs but there is room, and stores towards the end of the programme.
On film
So the three-step process for teaching the heel is one, step one is you teach them where the heel is, right, the position relative to your body. And then number two, you teach him that, you know, that position moves, right, heel moves, and it's his job to fix it, right, he has to keep the heel. And then the third is that after he knows the position and he knows that it's his job to stay in it when it's moving, then you try to shake him out of the position. And you give consequences, positive and negative, when he keeps the position.
he knows where like to go he knows the heel entry and he knows to stay in that spot the heel motion so then it's just about reinforcing it consistently and proofing it under distractions
because like at first you know like at the facility in the training room in the training yard places like this um and then like walking trails in parks and stuff like that where he's going to see other dogs and stuff but it's a bigger more open area and then i start towards the end of the program we go to stores
Finn
Finn is the dog for whom the order is reversed and the handler says so. With most dogs you can add distance and distraction fairly quickly; with him it is duration and that is it, close up, and distance goes on afterwards. The reason is in another session: distance is the criterion that breaks his sit, because stepping away is its own problem for some dogs, so the criterion is lowered back to sitting next to him. And his file contains the plainest statement in this concept of what a change of context actually costs: everything they had to go through to get basic things indoors has to be gone through all over again outdoors, and the trainer describes it as a reset rather than as a regression.
On film
Whereas with him, I'm literally just having to do duration and then start super close.
So he does good with sit when you're next to him, right, when you start walking away that's supposed to be a thing with some dogs, they just are not a fan of the way you step away from them.
more intense and distracted situations, and you can see it's kind of like a reset. Whereas
might do it well with one person, but not with another. He might do it well one day,
Deuce
Deuce's file adds the variable an owner will never think of: another person the dog loves. His recall is nice around the trainer, and once his owner entered the picture his control went down a lot - the presence of a particular human treated as a difficulty dial in its own right. He also shows a failure being converted into a proofing plan rather than a correction: a stranger actively engaged with him, so the blown recall is not punished, but it is named as something that needs more proofing. And tiredness appears again as a condition rather than an excuse - the point being that the rules should still be clear to him when he is tired.
On film
once he entered the picture he like his his control went down a lot so I have to
the dude did engage with him of course so i'm not like gonna make that like a punishment because the dude did like actively engage with him was like here you buddy so like i'm not gonna punish that per se but it definitely could use some more proofing
so we wanna make sure that even when he's tired, the rules are still really clear to him
Oh, I'm sorry, buddy. I was a little fast on that. That's a me problem. That's a me thing.
Lola
Lola's case holds the three Ds against a nervous dog's ceiling. Distance is withheld because her nerves block it, and duration is raised instead - with the reason given in the negative: he does not want her to learn that coming out here to train is a miserable experience. Her go-home lesson turns the same idea into a three-phase ladder a family can run: inside behaviour first, then the back garden, then out and about, stores and hikes. And her second lesson adds the criterion that decides when a duration repetition is actually finished, which is not a clock at all - the anxious stare has to go, and until it does it is not really a smooth repetition of the command.
On film
try to get a try to get progress in without you know scarring the dogs it's always a good idea but just you know just i don't want her to learn that coming out here training is a miserable experience and i'm gonna drag you along in the heat right uh we don't want that
I think of it as like three phases right so you have like inside behavior maybe like backyard and then you have like out and about stores hikes
what we all look for in any command we do is that anxious stare where you're like specifically looking for the stair needs to go away. You can be a little nervous, but you got to actually learn how to settle. And until that happens, it's not really a smooth rep of the command.
Some of the stuff you have to reinforce it in the house. And that's why we do the sessions in the house. Yeah. Because the dogs do get like weird like that where I like I can walk around in the park, right? Yeah. She's like, "I'm home now. I don't have to listen to anybody."
Roxy
Roxy's sessions treat environment and latency as the criteria being raised once the behaviour itself is done: she has learned it to a relatively good extent, so this is a different environment, proofed out in public, smoother and quicker on verbal only. Distraction is raised deliberately and announced - they are going to challenge her - while distance and duration are left alone, which is the one-at-a-time rule being followed in practice rather than described. And the household's other dog supplies the distraction for the sit, a few feet away and working, with a recall used as the reset. The handler also proofs place with himself out of sight, behind a closed door, and corrects a break he hears rather than sees.
On film
she's learned it to a relatively good extent so this is a different environment proofing it out here in public smoother more quick on verbal only
Gotta practice those kinds of things, you know? Gotta proof it with distractions.
that she loves the pool so that's a reward so we'll get her tired out so i'm just gonna let her
I'm glad I heard her the first time. Because I went into another room and closed the door. So I heard her get up, so I came back and corrected it, but she stayed this time
I just happen to be looking through the little door hole this time when she went to get off Now she thinks that I'm all seeing just what we want
Ace (Chihuahua-terrier mix)
For a heel, distance does not apply because the command is in motion, so precision takes its place: tight on the curves, no drifting off to sniff, within a pet-dog standard that does not require prancing.
On film
Because this command is in motion, unlike a sit, or a place, or a down.
Now again, this is a pet dog heel, so I don't need to be like prancing by my side, nope.
Akira
Place is proofed against the particular events of a house, one at a time: a knock at the door, people walking around, the television, a meal, petting, the handler leaving. The criterion is all four feet on the cot rather than a position, and neither petting nor the handler walking out counts as a release.
On film
Things like knocking on the door. Things like, you know, walking around. People,
as long as she has all four feet on there
Because I'm leaving doesn't mean you get up.
Bandit
Distractions are taken as they come: passing dogs and a deer are treated as proofing repetitions, and later the handler sets up a sidestep on purpose so a mistake happens where it can be corrected. A slow down on asphalt becomes owner advice to think about the surface first. By the long down, distance, duration and distraction are all in play at once. At his first off-leash test (30 Sep material) the down is tested for distance and duration together: the trainer walks to the end of a bridge, 150 or 200 feet by his estimate, with his back turned, and Bandit holds it although a person walks up at the other end.
On film
looking for as many organic opportunities as possible to proof their
asphalt so i mean that it's something that you should take into consideration one before asking
that was a nice reinforcement there um i did something that i thought would definitely trip
And despite the distance, the duration, and the distraction, he did really well.
bit of distance and some duration on it as well so i'm going to walk down to the end of this bridge
and this is a nice long duration of me walking away with my back turned so it's a good indication
oh he did it even though there's a person walking up on the other end of the bridge
Callie
A German Shepherd proofed by distance, duration and absence: a long down at the end of a flexi lead, a sit with the handler walking past, a cot hold with the handler out of the house. Venues are picked for their load, including a named low-distraction zone for new work.
On film
distance and duration here flexi goes out about 26 feet so see if she gets up
low distraction zone for you good girly
Dory
The stay is proofed by the handler walking out of sight, and she looks for him.
On film
just working on like me being able to walk away going around here so you can't see me
Josephine
The three named and combined for an implied stay, with a real-world version: a sit before every road crossing, as habit and as stay practice the day supplies for free.
On film
A little movement. So a little bit of distraction.
leave it running josephine let's go come on come on we're just gonna ask her to sit before we cross
Major
Duration first and at low distraction: time on the property before any park, and running dogs added only after low-distraction recalls.
On film
more drool we want to do this at a low distraction this is pretty low even though there's like cats and cars
and this is very low setting like low distractions
Neo
The surface again, from a different trainer: a dog who would not sit on concrete is proofed on the surface where he struggles until it carries over to gravel.
On film
training one time and he would not sit on the concrete part that we were walking on
but once i proofed it enough in there then it started to carry over into the gravel
Roman
General curriculum delivered to the owners rather than shown on Roman: obligation is learned place by place (a down that is not done over there gets enforced, and then the dog learns it is obligated there too), and the leash should end up as a prop.
On film
Well, maybe over there, it's like, hey, down. And he doesn't do it. And then I got to go a little harder. And then he goes into the down. And then he learns, oh, wait, it's obligated here too.
because they don't feel comfortable doing which is fine but it's good that they can because then the leash should just be a prop
Kane
Kane's park walk is where the three are taught as a lecture rather than mentioned in passing. Proofing and generalisation, the trainer says, belong in the real world because that is where the commands will be used, which is why the intake asks where a dog lives and goes. Distraction is 'one of the three D's'; distance is how far the dog is from you, tested by walking away, behind or to the side of a downed dog; duration applies to nearly every command. He gives target holds - a sit for 30 seconds to a minute, a down for at least two or three minutes - and for a heel treats distance as duration, because the dog is meant to be beside you. The three can be raised together or each on its own, and generalisation is the separate question of context.
On film
generalization is different kinds of distractions that's one of the three D's
put them in it down and then walk away or walk behind them or walk to the side
duration um asking them to sit for 30 seconds or for 45 seconds or for a minute right normally you
down um i always want to make sure that they can stay in a down for at least two or three minutes, right?
So those three can be dialed up like levels all together.
And then generalization is more about context.
Kali
Kali, Kane's housemate, shows the dials turned one at a time. At the second owner lesson the trainer explains proofing to the family along the same lines, with a heel goal of a couple of minutes. On film: a down beside a volleyball game with 'a little bit of distance and duration and distraction'; later the same day a down proofed for distraction only, with duration and distance deliberately kept low; and in her first full off-leash session a down held while he walks the length of a field to the bleachers without looking back. She is also a surface case. On 10 Sep she would not lie down on concrete, did it on the grass, and he concluded 'it was just a surface problem' - adding that she still needs to lie down on concrete. On 25 Sep, after a slow down, he guessed the same again.
On film
like you can teach a dog a command initially but then you still have to proof it and generalize it
seconds i'd like for it normally like if they can confidently do it relatively reliably for at least
cali down a little bit of distance and duration and distraction here because we've got all these guys playing volleyball which is a very good distraction for her
didn't do a lot of duration a lot of distance i just was looking for a little bit of distraction
I'll walk, like, the full field away and see if I can get all the way over here to these bleachers.
it was just a surface problem she didn't like laying down on that concrete so i still i'm glad
Maybe she just didn't like down and out there on the uh on the concrete
Beo
Beo's walks put the order in words: now that he knows the commands, the criteria go up - respond to the first ask, then higher distraction, more distance, more duration - and the people on the trail are the distraction. On a greenway a week later a down is held as one person and then a stroller with a child pass; the next attempt is not clean ('No. Baio, down.'), he is put back, and the trainer calls the walk 'just proofing everything'.
On film
which now that he knows these commands I'm raising the criteria right he has to
I'm gonna start proofing it with higher distraction levels more distance more
Down. We just had one person walk by. We got another person walking by with a stroller with a kid.
No. Baio, down.
we're just proofing everything you know all right i think that uh there's another person
Apollo (the Sharkie)
With Apollo the distraction dial is turned by whatever the park supplies: a down held while high-speed runners with dogs go by. On a heel walk the trainer says he is now trying to proof the recall for distractions.
On film
Let's see how Apollo does in the down running by,
he's gotten a lot better but i'm really trying to prove the recall for distractions paul come come
Astro
Astro's place session names the three Ds outright as the next step. In a later heel-and-down session, once the down comes at a working level, the trainer says he will start working distance, duration and distractions on it.
On film
We're going to just do a little bit of the three D's.
Distance, duration,
down start working on distance duration distractions good boy Astro you smart
Bane
Bane's trainer explains distraction level to the family with an extreme comparison. A recall during tug in the backyard is one thing; walking Bane through Times Square is another, and the difference is 'just a distractions thing'.
On film
this um take a trip to new york city and you're like walking bane through like time square
right um it's just like a distractions thing right so he's perfectly well behaved uh listens
Bernie
On a store outing Bernie's down is proofed by the handler moving out of sight, walking past him and making noise. Bernie holds it.
On film
down down nope nope so I'm gonna move out of sight and see what he does trying
he does move out of sight again make noise he didn't get up good boy okay
Bun
In an August session Bun's trainer tells the family that reliability comes from the three Ds. Each is negatively reinforced, then paid on the far side with release to freedom and praise.
On film
the reliability and how you start to proof the commands is you focus on those three d's distance
duration and distraction and you negatively reinforce it um and then positively reinforce
Chunk
Chunk's down is taken onto gravel on purpose, a surface the trainer says dogs really dislike lying on. In a later session he takes the down to a park the pair had not worked in, to generalise it.
On film
let's see if he'll do it on the gravel here because that's when dogs really don't like to
Clark Kent
In a store, Clark Kent's sit is proofed by the handler pretending to shop rather than standing at a distance watching him. The handler picks things up and bends down, so he learns those movements are not a release. He holds when an employee walks past.
On film
ignoring clark kent i'm pretending to shop and just look around so that way he doesn't expect
to come yeah everything's good thank you very good he chose not to get up when
Cosmo
In Cosmo's place session a loud dog in the room is welcomed as the distraction.
On film
We have one dog in here that's kind of loud.
Really good for distractions.
Daisy
Daisy's heel practice carries on through construction noise, which the handler counts as 'different distractions and proofs'.
On film
but even so, Daisy's keeping up very nicely.
Some different distractions and proofs,
Drago
Drago's trainer reads him before raising anything. If the down is a struggle he will not push the implied stay on it; if it goes well, he will hold it slightly longer but barely add distance (that part of the line is uncertain audio). In a later Short Drago holds a sit through 'distance duration and lots of distraction' with no leash pressure.
On film
he's at if I see he's kind of struggling a little bit with the down then I I won't push the implied
the second repetition i'll have him stay in it for slightly longer but i probably won't increase
distance duration and lots of distraction he does it easily okay good boy responsive
Fiona
Fiona's down gets duration plus movement behind her, which the trainer calls 'always hard for dogs'. Her place is proofed by distance taken to the extreme: through a gate and two doors, into the house.
On film
We're going to do a duration on the down and I'm going to do some movement
Where I'm walking behind her which is always hard for dogs
So through a gate, a door, another door.
Hattie
In a sit-duration Short Hattie stays in the spot regardless of distractions, with the handler 'really pushing it' by working at a distance. She holds as a person walks by.
On film
regardless of any distractions that are happening I'm really pushing it by going
at a distance and testing out their endurance yeah she saw that one person
Josi
Josi's trainer makes a point about priorities. In a quiet setting, building duration is fine, but 'if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour'. What matters more is the other two Ds, and distraction is 'the big one': going behind a tree, walking out of sight, then busier places.
On film
like if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour right so what's more important is that
and distraction especially distraction is gonna be the big one so I'm gonna do
Kalypso
At Kalypso's go-home lesson the heel progression is laid out: slow at first, then fast-slows, then duration and distraction - heeling past people. As a service-dog candidate she also practises long downs at the facility while staff, dogs and kennel techs walk in and out.
On film
from there like okay like now like fast slows and then i just start working on duration and like
so we have to have her capable of staying in a down during those kinds of distractions
Levi
On a walk Levi's trainer places the three Ds inside the three phases of training: learning, clarity, then proofing, where 'we add more distractions durations and distance'. Levi is still in the learning phase.
On film
proofing phase during the proofing phase we add more distractions durations and
Lucia
Lucia is shown a new place from far away first, then taken further into it. In a park Short the trainer raises distraction only for what she already knows: she is not asked for a down near a distraction, because she does not know that command as well.
On film
at first and then we'll go a little bit more into the thick of it and give her an opportunity
distraction over there let's go not gonna make her down because she doesn't know the
Lunna
At Lake Benson the trainer explains the three Ds to a colleague: 'you only add one at a time'. Duration is how long the dog holds the command, and distraction is graded by place, the indoor dog room being far less distracting than outside. A later session proofs Lunna's sit against a gate being opened, closed and walked through.
On film
in dog training no all right duration distance and distraction okay you only add one at a time
stay in position with the opening closing walking through and just proofing that behavior
Marvin (Giant Schnauzer)
Marvin's recall and sit are proofed around ducks, a distraction the trainer waits for on purpose.
On film
I was hoping for an opportunity.
Max
At Tractor Supply and on an outing, Max's handler uses less pressure each time while adding more distraction and getting 'further and further away'.
On film
is good, good boy, more and more distraction with it, get further away from it, from him,
we're trying to get further and further away good boy
Murphy
In a heel Short with Murphy the trainer says the only thing he does next is make it longer: increase the three Ds, little by little, with negative reinforcement and the release.
On film
and longer i just increase the 3ds right distance duration and distraction and we move from there
Oscar
Oscar's trainer names the three Ds and then uses passing dogs as the distraction for an implied stay, with the Flexi left unlocked so the choice is Oscar's. On another outing the sit gets 'a little bit more duration a little bit more distance'.
On film
So one of the three Ds is duration, distance, and distraction.
And I'm not locking the Flexi.
and do an implied stay hey oscar sit do a little bit more duration a little bit more distance this
Ozzy
At Ozzy's first in-program lesson his trainer grades distraction by venue: a quiet room is low, a park is medium, and a store like Home Depot is high. For an excitable, nervous dog, even his own family standing in front of him is high distraction (that part of the passage is uncertain audio).
On film
medium distraction and then any kind of store where there's like home depot right like tons
I often think of like it kind of in like three levels, so you have like very low distraction,
Penny
Penny's down duration work is named as 'the three d's and the two c's'. In a long place session she holds the cot with a cat seven or eight feet away and ducks close by: duration and distraction together.
On film
the duration the three d's and the two c's okay good girl yeah up he's good girl good girl good
but she's controlling herself she knows she's not allowed to get off the place kind of
Peque (PK)
At Peque's home evaluation the family is shown that all her positions are implied stays and that each is built with 'what we call the three d's': distance, duration and distraction, adding to each in turn.
On film
or another command or the release command sit so you can you can this is what we call the three d's
the distance duration and uh distraction so with each one it you know you build on it so this is
Piglet
Piglet's down is tested for 'two of the three Ds' at once: the trainer walks far away with his back turned. In an earlier lesson the family is shown how to 'up the ante' in steps: walk around, throw a toy, move faster, open a door.
On film
distance duration part of her down here. Two of the three Ds. See how she handles me walking
up the ante further from there walk around uh around throw a toy around see if they that's
Stormy
At Stormy's second private lesson the owner walks behind her, and an 'eh-eh' puts her back when she starts to get up. The trainer calls this the start of building distance, duration and distractions: 'rinse, wash, repeat'.
On film
Yeah, you just rinse, wash, repeat.
That's how you start building distance,
Thor
With Thor the dials are named as they are turned. On walks it is distance and duration on the sit; at Bass Pro the heel is proofed for 'duration and distraction'. For place, distraction is to rise in named steps across sessions: a knock on the door, walking around, leaving the room.
On film
increasing distance and duration good boy Thor good job man good job buddy
Heel, it's about duration and distraction.
And then progressively we're going to make these kinds of sessions more and more distracting,
Thumper
Gemma names Thumper's sit as being at the proofing stage: distance, duration and distractions, plus context and 'client proofing'. On another day the handler keeps a friendly dog away from his heel work because, although it would be a nice distraction, 'we're not there yet'.
On film
are working on his distance, durations, distractions, context, and the last C is for client proofing,
the dogs. It's a nice distraction, but we're not there yet. Thumper, let's go. At least
Whiskey
Whiskey's heel is proofed in different areas, at different speeds and with different turns, because a dog that can do it at one pace or in one place has not learned it everywhere. A passing cart serves as the distraction test.
On film
different speeds different turns because dogs learn through the experience
Just because they can do it at a fast pace, doesn't mean they can do it at a slow pace
Zeus (March 2026)
With Zeus, the March 2026 Cane Corso, distraction is the last dial, turned by venue. At the park he does all his commands, so his final week moves to stores to proof everything.
On film
I'm gonna be taking him out to the store and like really proofing everything because here at the park
He pretty much does all his commands like off cue
Why it works
The trainers treat a command as a behaviour plus a set of conditions, and the conditions are what the dog has actually learned. That is why one is raised at a time: "you don't add to you always like until one's good then you add another one" (watch, 05:49). The reset is part of the mechanism rather than a courtesy attached to it - the criterion only goes up after the dog is "completely back to baseline", so that "he thinks he's figured it out each time" (watch, 12:42), which is a statement about the dog's experience of succeeding rather than about recovery. The heel model states the same thing as a sequence: teach the position, teach that the position moves and it is his job to keep it, then "try to shake him out of the position" and pay him for keeping it (watch, 03:34). When a known command fails, the handlers look for a changed condition before they look for a motive - "maybe he didn't want to do it on this blacktop" (watch, 10:19) - and they test it by changing that one thing back. The ground is the variable they find most often, and its mechanism is physical rather than psychological: the dog has to put his elbows and belly on it, and a hot slab or an unfamiliar hard surface is a different proposition from grass. The gradient claim is mechanical in the same way - uneven ground "can definitely change, especially the the way that a dog does heel" (watch, 03:27) - because a heel is a position relative to a moving body and a slope changes the geometry. The retreat-space claim is social: a room removes the option of leaving, so "there's no real retreat option there's just tension from anyone else in the room as well" (watch, 52:25). What is inferred rather than stated: nobody explains why duration is the one to start with, nobody says how big a step is too big - the only place the size of a step is discussed at all is a single remark that one was "a little bit bigger test than what we did before" (watch, 02:51) - and no one attempts a complete list of the uncounted variables. Each of them is found by one handler, in one session, and then used.
Where the trainers differ
Whether the ground is a variable or an excuse.
One view
It is a variable, and checking it is the first move. Dogs are weird about hard surfaces, so the first downs go on grass; a slow down on blacktop is diagnosed as the blacktop and gets quicker when moved; and the ground is tested by hand before the dog is asked to lie on it.
On film
All right, so he has a thing where he doesn't, some dogs, they're weird about it, you have to do it in the grass first.
what I wonder is maybe he didn't want to do it on this blacktop yeah so I moved him over to the pretty hot to the grass and he was a little bit quicker to do it he still resisted a little bit but then but then he got a little faster so So I think it might've been the blacktop was a big part of the problem, fair.
Another view
It is a preference the dog does not get to have. She is fine on the grass and resistant on the concrete, and the answer is repetitions on the concrete so that she learns it is not optional; Sage's go-home puts the house position as 'take it into account' and still require the command.
On film
because the concrete's hot um i needed to do a couple reps on there but she's got to know like
always take that kind of stuff into account ultimately i'm still like if i ask her to do a command i'm still gonna make her do it if she doesn't do it right away
How to read it
Both handlers agree the surface is real; they disagree about what follows. One treats it as information and moves the dog; the other works through it on the spot. Not resolved here.
Which of the three to raise first.
One view
Duration, always, and for everyone. It is named as where they start, and place work is run for five or ten minutes precisely to build the impulse control the other two will need.
On film
incrementally well I don't love was it's the three D's I feel like there's got to be a better name for that but it's what they call it and you add distance duration and distraction you don't and you don't add to you always like until one's good then you add another one so what we start with is duration
so making her sit there for five or ten minutes on place is like a whole workout for her because
Another view
It depends on the dog, and for some dogs the usual order is inverted. With most dogs distance and distraction can go on fairly quickly; with a frightened dog it is duration only, close up, and distance comes afterwards - and with a dog who is fine at any duration when you are beside her, distance is the only hole there is.
On film
Whereas with him, I'm literally just having to do duration and then start super close.
because she's fine with duration if I'm close to her, right? For all everything. So, it really is the distance part.
try to get a try to get progress in without you know scarring the dogs it's always a good idea but just you know just i don't want her to learn that coming out here training is a miserable experience and i'm gonna drag you along in the heat right uh we don't want that
How to read it
Not a contradiction so much as a default against a diagnosis, but it matters, because the default is the version that reaches owners in lessons and the diagnosis is the version the trainers actually run. Note also that the trainer who gives the per-dog answer loses the names of the three Ds mid-sentence and is prompted by an owner, which says something about how much of this is a formal framework and how much is working practice.
Common owner mistakes
- Raising two things at once - stepping further away and asking for longer, or adding distance in a busier place - and then reading the failure as disobedience.
On film
duration and distraction you don't and you don't add to you always like until
Stormie · Watch at 5:49 ↗ - Treating a refusal to lie down on concrete, tile or hot tarmac as stubbornness, when the dog has never been asked to do it on that surface or the surface is too hot.
On film
All right, so he has a thing where he doesn't, some dogs, they're weird about it, you have to do it in the grass first.
Louie · Watch at 2:50 ↗ what I wonder is maybe he didn't want to do it on this blacktop yeah so I moved him over to the pretty hot to the grass and he was a little bit quicker to do it he still resisted a little bit but then but then he got a little faster so So I think it might've been the blacktop was a big part of the problem, fair.
Sage · Watch at 10:19 ↗ - Asking for the next repetition before the dog has come back to baseline, which removes the sense of having figured it out that the whole escalation depends on.
On film
if we're on a walk, go sniff everything. And then only after that reset has happened and he's completely back to baseline, I can try again and raise the criteria.
Bullet · Watch at 12:36 ↗ - Helping the dog into position with an extra cue - saying sit before down - which teaches him the command needs the other command first.
On film
what I'll do I don't want to say sit. That's how I get I want her to be in that position cuz it makes it easier. But I don't want to say the word because then she'll learn that I have to say like sit before she'll down.
Luna · Watch at 27:34 ↗ - Introducing two dogs to each other indoors, which removes the retreat and raises the difficulty at exactly the moment everybody thinks they are being careful.
On film
inside is normally higher tension yeah because there's no they can't really get away from each other yeah there's no real there's no real retreat option there's just tension from anyone else in the room as well yeah they need to be able to handle tension amongst each other
Kodak · Watch at 52:25 ↗ - Correcting a dog who wants to be close for being close, when proximity is the thing that has to be trained rather than the thing being refused.
On film
she's trying she really is she's got to learn you cannot be that close to me
Dutchess · Watch at 4:31 ↗ - Forgetting that the people the dog loves are a distraction. A recall that holds for a trainer can collapse the moment a family member walks into the picture.
On film
once he entered the picture he like his his control went down a lot so I have to
Deuce · Watch at 0:59 ↗
Questions owners ask
What are the three Ds?
Distance, duration and distraction - how far away you are, how long you ask him to hold it, and what else is going on. The rule that goes with them matters more than the list: you add one at a time, and you do not add the next until the first one is good. Duration is where he says they start. On place that means holding for longer before anybody steps away or anything interesting happens; ten minutes is described as a goal time. Only then do the distractions come in. Several handlers add to the list. Penny's handler says 'the three d's and the two c's', and Thumper's names the Cs: context, and client proofing - the dog working for the owner as well as the trainer. Levi's trainer places all three in the proofing phase, after learning and clarity.
On film
incrementally well I don't love was it's the three D's I feel like there's got to be a better name for that but it's what they call it and you add distance duration and distraction you don't and you don't add to you always like until one's good then you add another one so what we start with is duration
i think the longest i've had her stay on place successfully was about 10 minutes or so which is really great that's like a goal time usually that i go for
there because then by the time i take the dog out the impulse control is better and we can start like adding more things like i can add distance right we can have more people eventually we walk by dogs stuff like that
are working on his distance, durations, distractions, context, and the last C is for client proofing,
the duration the three d's and the two c's okay good girl yeah up he's good girl good girl good
proofing phase during the proofing phase we add more distractions durations and
He lies down on grass in a second and will not do it on concrete. Is he being stubborn?
Probably not. One trainer starts every down on grass as a matter of course, because dogs sometimes will not lie down on anything else until they really know the command, and moves to concrete later. Another says plainly that some dogs are weird about it and you have to do it in the grass first. A third, watching a slow down on blacktop, wonders whether the surface is the problem, moves the dog to grass, gets a quicker down, and concludes the blacktop was a big part of it. And a fourth checks the ground with his own hand before asking a dog to sit on it. So before you turn anything up, put your palm on the ground, and try the same repetition three feet away on grass.
On film
no respect for me, she won't do it. Also, I start on the grass because dogs sometimes won't down unless they're on the grass at first until they really know the command and then I start doing it on the concrete.
All right, so he has a thing where he doesn't, some dogs, they're weird about it, you have to do it in the grass first.
It's not that hot, I already tested it.
Which one should I raise first?
Duration is the stated default, and the reason given is that it builds the impulse control the other two will need - five or ten minutes on place is described as a whole workout for a dog who is not naturally patient. But the trainers do not follow it blindly, and the exceptions are instructive. For a frightened dog the order was inverted: with most dogs you can add distance and distraction fairly quickly, with him it was duration only, close up, and distance afterwards. For another dog the diagnosis ran the other way - she was fine at any duration as long as the handler was near her, so distance was the only hole and the only thing worth working. The useful version of the rule is: raise the one this dog is worst at, one at a time, and know which one you are raising. Josi's trainer adds a weighting rather than an order: in a quiet setting duration is easy to stretch ('if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour'), so the effort belongs to distance and above all distraction. Drago's trainer shows the other half of the rule: if the base command is struggling, nothing gets raised.
On film
um place for a dog like her who impulse control is she's not very gifted with impulse control so making her sit there for five or ten minutes on place is like a whole workout for her because she's having to really try to push to not break the rules
Whereas with him, I'm literally just having to do duration and then start super close.
because she's fine with duration if I'm close to her, right? For all everything. So, it really is the distance part.
like if they can do 15 minutes they can do an hour right so what's more important is that
he's at if I see he's kind of struggling a little bit with the down then I I won't push the implied
How do I actually raise one, in practice?
Get the repetition, then let the dog come all the way back down before you ask again. One trainer spells it out: the dog gets plenty of time to reset - walk around, follow him about, get some pets, sniff everything on a walk - and only after he is completely back to baseline does the criterion go up. The point of the reset is not kindness, it is that the dog gets to feel as though he has figured it out each time, and that is what makes the next raise survivable. Then you raise one thing - a bit longer, or a bit more going on - and over time you have a command that is more and more solid. If it fails, come down rather than pushing: one trainer in a busy store says out loud that he pitched the criteria too high, gives the dog a break, lowers them a little, and gets the heel immediately.
On film
plenty of time to reset where he can now do this. He can reset, do whatever he's going to do. Um, walk all around, follow me around, get some pets, uh, listen to me yap to the camera. Um, if we're on a walk, go sniff everything. And then only after that reset has happened and he's completely back to baseline, I can try again and raise the criteria. Right? So then he thinks he's figured it out each time and then I raise the criteria again by increasing duration or increasing distraction. And over time you have a heel that is more and more solid.
I might have been a little bit too high on the criteria end there.
Okay, good boy. Good heel. Good job. Lower the criteria a little bit. Let's go. Come on, Bo.
What else changes a command besides those three?
The ground he has to lie on. The slope - uphill, downhill and uneven ground change the mechanics of a heel, and the trainer who noticed it said he had not thought of it before. Your walking speed - one dog holds a slow heel perfectly and lags on a fast one, which is a fault only the pace produces. How much room there is to get away, which is why two dogs meeting outdoors is easier than two dogs meeting in a living room. How close you are standing, which is not the same thing as distance-as-proofing: one dog in this record wants to be touching her handler, so three feet away is genuinely hard for her. And the dog's own state - one handler walked a tired dog past people specifically to see what she does when she is tired. And whether you are in sight: a place hold with the handler behind a closed door, or walking out of view, is a harder version of the same command.
On film
I hadn't thought about that, proofing for, um, for downhill and uphill, or like uneven ground, because that can definitely change, especially the the way that a dog does heel
because he knows the heel but he's uh if i speed up faster he um he falls behind he's not forging
The dog's tired, the impulse control is worse, so if you can get a dog to, sometimes it's really good, and sometimes you can't control the impulse anymore, so I want to see what she does when she's tired,
He does it perfectly on his bed and nowhere else. Which D is that?
None of them, and that is the point. When only the place changes, no distance, duration or distraction has been added, yet the command can fall apart. Finn's trainer puts it plainly: everything they went through to get basic commands indoors has to be gone through again outdoors, and he calls it a reset rather than a regression. Akira's place is proofed room-event by room-event inside her own house for the same reason. The fix is not to raise anything but to run the same teaching again in the new place.
On film
more intense and distracted situations, and you can see it's kind of like a reset. Whereas
Things like knocking on the door. Things like, you know, walking around. People,
What should I use as a distraction?
Whatever your dog actually wants, and preferably something already in your life rather than something you set up. One trainer sums up the standard in one line - that is exactly what he wants to see, the temptation part, you need temptations. And one warns against the cheap version: a repetition against something the dog is only mildly curious about proves nothing, because curious is not the same as pumped. Whatever arrives, graded by place: a loud dog in the room (Cosmo), ducks at a pond (Marvin), passing dogs with the Flexi left unlocked (Oscar), a store employee walking by (Clark Kent), a passing cart (Whiskey). Ozzy's trainer gives the ladder: quiet room, park, store. A distraction beyond the dog's current level is avoided, not trained through (Thumper).
On film
That's exactly what I want to see. The temptation part. You need temptations.
I'm going to run towards the ball this time. He did good. He stayed on place.
So like maybe I'll have a conversation I'll get like really animate and do all this kind of stuff really trying to distract the dog
Really good for distractions.
And I'm not locking the Flexi.
medium distraction and then any kind of store where there's like home depot right like tons
the dogs. It's a nice distraction, but we're not there yet. Thumper, let's go. At least
How long should he be able to hold a sit or a down?
The only numbers in the record come from one trainer on one park walk with Kane, and he gives them as what he wants rather than as a rule: a sit for 30 seconds, 45 seconds or a minute, because you rarely need longer, and a down for at least two or three minutes. At Kali's lesson the heel goal is a couple of minutes, because that is longer than you will normally need it. They are targets for duration only; the same trainer says the three dials can be raised together or one at a time.
On film
duration um asking them to sit for 30 seconds or for 45 seconds or for a minute right normally you
down um i always want to make sure that they can stay in a down for at least two or three minutes, right?
seconds i'd like for it normally like if they can confidently do it relatively reliably for at least
The lesson
The goal
The handler can name which criterion a repetition is testing before asking for it, can diagnose a failed repetition by identifying the variable that changed rather than by assigning a motive, and can lower a criterion out loud without treating it as a defeat.
Learn first
- Say the criterion out loud before the rep
- Two events, not one - and what the handler does in between
- Pick the place for what it contains - life is the training ground
See it done
- The three Ds named to a family, with the one-at-a-time rule and duration as the starting point. Watch at 5:41 ↗
- The reset-then-raise cycle described while it happens, including why the reset is load-bearing. Watch at 12:28 ↗
- A hidden variable diagnosed live: slow down, blacktop suspected, dog moved to grass, conclusion revised. Watch at 10:19 ↗
- A criterion lowered on camera in a busy store, and the behaviour arriving immediately. Watch at 7:47 ↗
The drill
Pick one command the dog already knows and one criterion. Say which one out loud before each repetition. Run it at a level he can certainly do, release, and then let him come all the way back to baseline - sniffing, wandering, being touched - before the next one. Raise only that criterion, in a step small enough that you expect success. When a repetition fails, do not repeat it: ask what changed. Run through the list deliberately - surface (put your hand on it), slope, your pace, how close you are standing, how much room he has, who has just appeared, how tired he is. Change that one thing back, get a clean repetition, and either stop there or put the variable back in more gently. Once a week, raise the criterion on purpose in a place where failure costs nothing, and say afterwards which dial you moved. (Stormie watch; Bullet watch; Sage watch; Bo watch; Luna watch.)
Watch out for
- Raising two criteria at once and reading the result as character.
- Asking again before the dog is back at baseline.
- Taking a refusal on a hard or hot surface as defiance without checking the surface.
- Helping with an extra cue, which quietly becomes part of the command.
- Proofing against distractions the dog does not actually want.
- Moving two dogs indoors to introduce them, which removes the retreat and raises the difficulty.
- Treating a criterion that has to be lowered as a failure rather than as information.
Check yourself
Your dog holds a down for two minutes in the garden every evening. On the pavement outside the shop he pops straight back up. Name three variables that just changed. (Surface - concrete instead of grass, and possibly hot; distraction - the street; and context - a place he has never been asked to hold a down in. Distance and duration have not changed at all, which is why raising them will not help.)
