The answer
Often it can. But the trainers treat 'my dog doesn't play' as three different problems, and the first job is working out which one you have.
The most common one in these files isn't really a missing game. It's a missing relationship. A dog who doesn't know you yet won't compete with you over a toy. Dolly was nervous of a trainer she had just met and didn't want the toy at first. The trainer made the toy run away like prey instead of pushing it at her, and within the same lesson she was 'really into the game' and shaking her head to win. Callie's reluctance was read in the same words: maybe she doesn't want to compete with you directly yet. Kodak's trainer thought, on their first outing, that trying to play would panic him. Once the trainer actually offered him a ball, the whole session plan went out of the window. One trainer puts the rule plainly: the dog has to like you and know you like him, or how is he ever going to play with you?
The second is a dog who has genuinely never played. Bullet is the clearest case. The third is a dog whose play was taken away. Dolce's bite and chase play was probably suppressed when she was a puppy, so her trainer describes the work as opening her back up rather than building from nothing.
The method is much the same for all three. Build the relationship first. Don't ask for commands while the game is new. When no toy works, become the toy yourself: hand-fight, allow a little mouthing, chase and be chased, make noise. Keep offering toys inside that game, and make the toy act like prey moving away from the dog, not something shoved at his face. Let him win some rounds and lose some. Keep offering toys even to a fearful dog, because assuming he won't play is what keeps you from finding out. The trainers' reason for all this effort is causal. Three different sessions say the same thing: the harder a dog plays, the more motivated he is, and the faster the obedience comes.
The 30 Sep update adds two first-week pictures that fit the same three problems. Muna, on her first day, wants to play and likes a soft tug, but lets go 'as soon as there's like a little competition and pressure'; her trainer reads low confidence, not a missing game, and spends the next couple of days building the game before any obedience. Chunk's handlers describe the suppressed version in household terms: a dog whose play is stopped at home, or whose couch-chewing is corrected, loses some drive, and then 'you have to open it back up with the toy part' - teaching a dog to play is, in their words, a mutual learning process.
The fast turnarounds on film (Dolly in one lesson, Kodak in four minutes) were dogs who already had a game and needed a person they trusted to play it with. None of the dogs building play from nothing reached a lasting toy game on camera. Bullet's tug arrived on day six and was gone four days later, and his trainer came to think freedom might always beat play for him. Bo's ball was an open project for five months and never landed. Callie was never a hard player, and her family were told to use the piece of wood she liked instead. Egg got as far as licking a toy. In every one of those cases the programme went on anyway, paid for with freedom, sniffing and contact. Play is the fast road where it can be built. The trainers never say it's the only road, and one says the alternative outright to Stormy's family: some dogs never really take to tug in a program, and then contact - a jump-up on cue - carries much of the reward while the walk carries the training (watch 09:56; watch 33:11). Seven more dogs show the building in progress rather than an outcome: personal play first, ball and tug kept on offer (Bun, Kali, Reaper), a toy held a little longer each time (Phoebe), a game kept fun rather than perfect (Oscar), and play built alongside the training rather than instead of it (Milo).
Angier K9 is a family-owned, play-based Board & Train serving Angier, Raleigh and the Triangle, with three full owner lessons.
What to do
Don't write your dog off as a non-player until you've played with him as someone he trusts. If he's wary, make the toy move away from you like prey rather than pushing it at him (watch 05:45). If no toy works, be the toy: hand-fight, let a little mouthing happen, run so he chases you (watch 06:17). Don't ask for commands while the game is new (watch 04:07; watch 09:20). Let him win sometimes, and don't make it too easy (watch 11:36; watch 15:01). Keep toys with you and actually offer them, even if he's nervous (watch 07:35). If the game you had disappears, stop the drills and rebuild the game first (watch 03:06). If he truly prefers something else, like sniffing, a stick or a piece of wood, use that as his reward while you keep working on play (watch 15:08).
What the trainers say
it and they'll run around and play yeah he's still like he's playing more than he was but he's still figuring out like what it is what it is yeah like he is this really supposed to be fun or is this part of the work like he didn't i don't like i don't think he ever played before
do that yeah quit licking my legs so i just think it's lack of exposure like most of the time they learn that as puppies like you give them a bucket of water you let them play in the water and you just like leave it alone type thing um i just don't think he ever had that
I try to spray him with the water hose, and he ain't like most dogs.
now and see like if he's interested in any of the toys bullet hey man oh bullet okay he's not
he likes to go smell everything that he can, so we're just going to use that and use the release to to freedom as his main reward until we can get him to play
oh it's a new personal play then oh we're gonna fight hand fight hand fight oh there's a little bitey that's good that's good
so far bullet's rewards have all been more personal play style and environmental rewards so rewards to freedom
into personal play oh there we go first time he took it in his mouth yeah good job dude good job
this is good the play will just get stronger and stronger after this now that he's finally going for the tug i just got to keep raising that capacity for him and his obedience is going to come along so much faster with that
it took like six or seven days for me to get bullet to play tug with me right at first he just totally ignored me didn't care at all then little by little i started getting him to do personal play like day four or five and it took until day six for me to get him to like fully open up
training why because ideally for a training scenario you need to have a relationship with the dog you need to have trust with the dog they need to like you and they need to know that you like them right um otherwise how are they going to ever play with you
Um because the play session is the way that often if a dog is uh capable of like opening up and playing with you, um if not, we just have to go straight to the walk at first.
uh because i had him playing tug really hard before and i want to get that hard tug playing
it um i think i need to spend a little bit more time just chilling with him and bonding
much about anything else. Treats, meh. Playing, that's all right. It's pretty good. But at the level of play that I've been able to get him to engage in so far, this right here is far superior. And I think it might always be.
a lot of times if we want to open another dog up u, I will use Zuri to open them up.
The most complicated part of indoctrination is play.
it's probably just because of when she's a puppy you should suppress it right so i'm trying to open her back up for the biting and like the mouthing and like stuff like that and like the chasing part
i've been doing some flirt pole work with her instead of like the full tug just to get her to want to do it more and like really get into it um because it's just more of a confidence thing where she gets like a little bored with it and she goes and don't really know and then she goes in and she gets like a little nervous with it
she's doing good with it it's just she's a rottweiler rottweilers aren't always the fastest at like wanting to do the fight stuff and like that part of it not like Belgians they pick that up pretty fast
so for the obedience and proofing that we'll have that part done by probably next week for that stuff the chasing and for like the bite in the defense I'll know more by the end of this week for that because like I said I just I it's just based off her her confidence
and so i was hoping she would open up a little faster but it's a little slower than what I wanted but she is opening up
we're just trying to open up more for the chasing part so that we can get her to really enjoy that part of the game and then we can transition to like sleep, work, and things like that.
thing that can make it not fun is if you win every time and they have no chance
So you want to try to start using strategies, not brute strength.
because you got to think like what do they want out of the play if the dog's too nervous to play with me because she doesn't know me
holding it she's like no cuz she doesn't want to directly compete with me yet
so you want to get her to play hard so if you do this on a regular basis with something like this you get her to play harder and harder the harder they play the more they want it the higher their motivation is easier it is to train them
because they have to know that they can win right otherwise if you get beat every time they just win no fun if they win every time also no fun if they win sometimes and they lose sometimes lots lots of fun.
So you can see that when I first brought it out, she didn't even really want it. And now she's really into the game.
Maybe they don't want to compete with you directly yet.
I'm not giving her any formal commands yet. Here. I just want to see if I can get her interested in the game a little bit stronger.
got a little bit of play with the stick haven't been able to get her to play super hard but working on it
I think she likes that piece of wood more than she likes that. Yeah, that usually happens. But you can use that in her favor.
This is why you should always take some stuff with you and try it, right? Because it can totally change your approach. Try tug, try ball, try stuff.
Don't just assume that, oh, well, you know, they're kind of like fearful or they're kind of nervous so they won't do it. You don't know that. They might do it.
sometimes with dogs like this, like if I tried to play with him right now, oh, oh, that would be panic inducing for Kodak. He would be scared to death if I tried to play with him right now
what I don't want to do is start right now at this moment I don't want to start immediately integrating like too much obedience into the play because of his like super crazy nerve starting point I want to go ahead and like build up the play first build up a good relationship through the play build that cooperation
much I'm trying to get him to care about the ball more let's go good job dude
That's the easiest way to train a dog is if they like to play catch or they like to play tug or something like that
Good job. And I want to get Bo to play a little bit more tug. Come on. Yeah. Good. He really likes the personal play.
again it does work take them on long walks get them to do personal play and very often from there if you weren't able to get them to play with like say a ball or a tug toy or something like that this is a gateway drug right
something like that i might do like a quick obedience check when we first get out but for for egg i care more about him opening up and wanting to like be out here with me and having a good time because then i can more easily train him
joy. I will die of joy if I get this dog to play today.
but as soon as there's like a little competition and pressure me like pulling on it she lets it go
so what we're going to do is just over the next couple days we're just going to spend our time building that game up and building the confidence up
because we want her to play really really strong and be really confident with it so that we can use that play to then guide through and do things with the obedience
The secret is you like you let go a few times you went a few times you let go even if you could win
and a lot of people forget to of course I'm saying this for the camera that you have to teach your dog how to play
so then you end up suppressing that drive a little bit which is It's fine for like the couch stuff, but then you have to open it back up with the toy part, so they start learning the difference.
haven't been able to really get them to play tug and there's sometimes when I go through a program and the dog never really plays
How it looks, dog by dog
Bullet
On day one Kelton offers toys to find his game and gets nothing. By day two the plan is already to pay him with release to freedom 'until we can get him to play'. On day three the play test fails again, and personal play takes over: hand fighting with a little mouthing allowed, chase, being sent to Connor. The trainer calls personal play and freedom his reward system, not a stand-in for one. A solid tug lands on day six, and the claim follows within minutes: raise the capacity and the obedience will come much faster. A trainer retelling it later, in another dog's session, confirms the timeline: ignored at first, personal play by day four or five, tugging hard on day six. Four days after that the hard tug is gone. The session is aborted, and the prescription is bonding, not repetitions. Kelton later brings in his own dog-friendly dog to get Bullet 'having fun again'. By the long park walk the trainer has changed his view: freedom is far superior to the play he has managed to get, 'and I think it might always be.' At the owner visit Christian gives the diagnosis that explains all of it. This isn't a dog who lost his game. He's a dog who probably never had one. The tug is never seen again, and the obedience arrives anyway.
On film
he likes to go smell everything that he can, so we're just going to use that and use the release to to freedom as his main reward until we can get him to play
so far bullet's rewards have all been more personal play style and environmental rewards so rewards to freedom
this is good the play will just get stronger and stronger after this now that he's finally going for the tug i just got to keep raising that capacity for him and his obedience is going to come along so much faster with that
it took like six or seven days for me to get bullet to play tug with me right at first he just totally ignored me didn't care at all then little by little i started getting him to do personal play like day four or five and it took until day six for me to get him to like fully open up
uh because i had him playing tug really hard before and i want to get that hard tug playing
much about anything else. Treats, meh. Playing, that's all right. It's pretty good. But at the level of play that I've been able to get him to engage in so far, this right here is far superior. And I think it might always be.
do that yeah quit licking my legs so i just think it's lack of exposure like most of the time they learn that as puppies like you give them a bucket of water you let them play in the water and you just like leave it alone type thing um i just don't think he ever had that
Egg
At the evaluation his carers answer the trainer's question flatly: he has not played. His trainer treats play as something to build, not something to test for. The route is the one Bullet's file uses, stated as a method: long walks and personal play first, as a 'gateway drug' to toy games, and on the walk his priority is that Egg opens up and enjoys himself, because then he is easier to train. On the woodland walk the trainer tries to spark chase with a found object, and a little play appears. In the play-yard clips several toys are offered, a treat is thrown as a game, and the high point is Egg sniffing and licking a toy, which the handler celebrates as if it were a breakthrough. It is the start of the process, recorded honestly, with the handler calling it 'some progress'. Egg never picks up a toy on film.
On film
Has he ever played? He has not played.
again it does work take them on long walks get them to do personal play and very often from there if you weren't able to get them to play with like say a ball or a tug toy or something like that this is a gateway drug right
trying to get his chase instincts going a little bit I want him to chase but because that would be helpful to get him to play chase and catch with me
At least we're getting a little personal play now.
i'm definitely gonna spend a bunch more time doing this because i think we have some progress
Dolce
Dolce is the other kind of missing play: not never learned, but learned and then taken away. Her owner remembers a puppy who would hang in the air off a bite toy. Her trainer's reading is that the biting, mouthing and chasing were suppressed when she was small, so the work is reopening it. Her record adds a breed expectation: Rottweilers aren't always quick to want the fight work, unlike Belgians. That is why a dog who is off leash in public by mid-July is still being coached to grip the sleeve in September. The tool is a flirt pole instead of the full tug, because the bigger game makes her bored, then unsure, then a little nervous. The trainer gives the family a date for the obedience and refuses to give one for the chase and bite work, because that part depends on her confidence. At the second owner lesson the family are taught to play tug as a real game, with the win-some, lose-some rule and strategy instead of strength. The file also carries the cluster's thesis, said without qualification: the most complicated part is play. The last word in the record is that she is opening up, more slowly than hoped.
On film
it's probably just because of when she's a puppy you should suppress it right so i'm trying to open her back up for the biting and like the mouthing and like stuff like that and like the chasing part
she's doing good with it it's just she's a rottweiler rottweilers aren't always the fastest at like wanting to do the fight stuff and like that part of it not like Belgians they pick that up pretty fast
i've been doing some flirt pole work with her instead of like the full tug just to get her to want to do it more and like really get into it um because it's just more of a confidence thing where she gets like a little bored with it and she goes and don't really know and then she goes in and she gets like a little nervous with it
so for the obedience and proofing that we'll have that part done by probably next week for that stuff the chasing and for like the bite in the defense I'll know more by the end of this week for that because like I said I just I it's just based off her her confidence
thing that can make it not fun is if you win every time and they have no chance
The most complicated part of indoctrination is play.
Dolly
She is the fastest turnaround on film, and what the trainer is fixing isn't a missing game but a missing relationship. At the first private lesson she is nervous of a trainer she doesn't know and doesn't want the toy. The trainer's diagnosis comes as a question: what does a dog who is too nervous to play with you want out of play? The answer is a toy on a line that runs away from the trainer like prey, so she can bite without facing anyone. When the trainer holds it, she refuses, because she doesn't want to compete directly yet. So the game starts non-competitive and becomes competitive as she warms up, and she is allowed to win some rounds. Within the lesson she goes from not wanting it to shaking her head to win. The owners take over the game, and it then becomes the vehicle for teaching the out, place and sit. The trainer states the causal claim without hedging: play hard regularly and she will play harder and harder; the harder they play, the higher the motivation and the easier the training.
On film
because you got to think like what do they want out of the play if the dog's too nervous to play with me because she doesn't know me
in her mouth she'd be like no thank you right but this this is away from me and it's behaving like like prey
holding it she's like no cuz she doesn't want to directly compete with me yet
So you can see that when I first brought it out, she didn't even really want it. And now she's really into the game.
so you want to get her to play hard so if you do this on a regular basis with something like this you get her to play harder and harder the harder they play the more they want it the higher their motivation is easier it is to train them
Kodak
On the first public outing his trainer rules play out: trying to play would panic him, so he has to do something else. A few days later the trainer brings toys anyway, and four minutes in he drops his session plan: all they are going to do today is play ball. He draws the general rule on camera. Always take some stuff and try it, because it can change your whole approach, and don't assume a fearful or nervous dog won't play. He then keeps obedience out of the new game on purpose, because the game is building cooperation and a relationship first. At the first owner lesson the family's own account says the same (his life is all about balls), and ball is ranked far above freedom as his reward, the opposite of Bullet. This isn't a capacity that was grown. It's one that was there all along and couldn't show itself to a stranger.
On film
sometimes with dogs like this, like if I tried to play with him right now, oh, oh, that would be panic inducing for Kodak. He would be scared to death if I tried to play with him right now
all we're gonna actually do today um based on what i'm seeing now we are literally literally just gonna we're just gonna play ball
Don't just assume that, oh, well, you know, they're kind of like fearful or they're kind of nervous so they won't do it. You don't know that. They might do it.
what I don't want to do is start right now at this moment I don't want to start immediately integrating like too much obedience into the play because of his like super crazy nerve starting point I want to go ahead and like build up the play first build up a good relationship through the play build that cooperation
His life is all about balls.
Yeah, he likes ball five times as much as he likes freedom.
Callie
Callie shows the middle outcome: play partly built, never hard, and worked around instead of forced. Early on the trainer tries a ball, a tug on a line and keep-away, and gets no competition. The reading is the same as with Dolly, and nearly in the same words: maybe she doesn't want to compete with you directly yet. No formal commands are given while the trainer tries to make the game 'a little bit stronger'. When the game stays weak, the trainer switches to what she does want. She likes freedom, so freedom is her reward for now. On the state-park hike she picks up a stick, and the trainer's honest summary is that they haven't been able to get her to play super hard but are working on it. At the go-home lesson the go-home trainer remembers she wasn't much of a player at first and wonders whether Kelton changed that. The favourite turns out to be a piece of wood, not the tug, and the family are told to use it in her favour as the reward.
On film
Maybe they don't want to compete with you directly yet.
I'm not giving her any formal commands yet. Here. I just want to see if I can get her interested in the game a little bit stronger.
Well, she likes freedom, so we're gonna use that for right now
got a little bit of play with the stick haven't been able to get her to play super hard but working on it
remember I remember when I first played with her she wasn't that crazy I don't know if Kelton changed that with her
I think she likes that piece of wood more than she likes that. Yeah, that usually happens. But you can use that in her favor.
Bo
Bo is the honest negative, and the reason this concept is written as a project with a failure rate, not a promise. Kelton names ball value as an active project, not a fact about Bo: he doesn't care much, and Kelton is trying to get him to care more. The reason comes in the same session, said to a stranger on a trail: a dog who likes catch or tug is the easiest dog there is to train, and a blue heeler in his truck would go off a cliff for a ball. The project is still open months later, when Kelton tells another bystander that Bo likes the ball a little bit and he is working on it. Across five months a ball, an air ball, a frisbee and a tennis ball are each offered, and each is declined or half-taken. What Bo does like is personal play, which Kelton says in so many words while trying for more tug. The programme runs on contact and freedom instead.
On film
I'll see if he wants it he'll probably walk by it yeah he doesn't care that much I'm trying to get him to care about the ball more
That's the easiest way to train a dog is if they like to play catch or they like to play tug or something like that
And he will jump off a cliff to get the ball.
Yeah. Yeah, he's okay with it. He likes ball, like, a little bit. I'm trying to work on it and get him to like it more.
Good job. And I want to get Bo to play a little bit more tug. Come on. Yeah. Good. He really likes the personal play.
Muna
New in the 30 Sep update. Muna is the relationship-and-confidence version on her first day. She wants to engage and likes a softer tug, but as soon as there is a little competition and pressure - the trainer pulling on it - she lets it go and backs off; thrown to her, she grabs it and bounces. The trainer reads it as low confidence, not a missing game, and makes the plan explicit: spend the next couple of days building that game and her confidence before any obedience, because the aim is a dog who plays really strong and can be guided through the obedience with play. He ends the first session the moment she bites a little harder and starts to pull back. What happened next is not in the files read.
On film
she wants to engage but then you saw there's a few moments there where like i tried to jump and like initiate some things and i tried to like pull the tug and she got a little nervous
but as soon as there's like a little competition and pressure me like pulling on it she lets it go
so what we're going to do is just over the next couple days we're just going to spend our time building that game up and building the confidence up
because we want her to play really really strong and be really confident with it so that we can use that play to then guide through and do things with the obedience
So we're going to end it there, because her confidence went up a little bit
Chunk
New in the 30 Sep update (his new case edition maps 'The competition tug' here). In an in-house session two staff work Chunk on the tug and say how they built it: make it a competition, let him win a few and lose a few even when you could win, until he cannot be beaten. They name the household version of suppression too. Play is a mutual learning process; a dog who has never played hard doesn't automatically know how, and a dog whose play is stopped at home, or whose chewing of couches is corrected, loses some drive - fine for the couch, but then it has to be opened back up on the toy so he learns the difference. Who says which line is not reliable on this recording.
On film
The secret is you like you let go a few times you went a few times you let go even if you could win
and a lot of people forget to of course I'm saying this for the camera that you have to teach your dog how to play
it's a mutual yeah learning process because if they've never like played hard before yeah they they don't automatically know how
so then you end up suppressing that drive a little bit which is It's fine for like the couch stuff, but then you have to open it back up with the toy part, so they start learning the difference.
Finn
New in the 30 Sep update; not a map member. A one-minute Short from Finn's walks shows only an offer: a tug held out on the walk, then put off - 'I think we should play tug later at the house.' Nothing else about Finn's play is in this Short.
On film
I think we should play tug later at the house.
Bun
With a nervous Bun, the trainer shows the family play without a toy: personal play, running around like dogs playing tag. He lists the kinds of play - personal play, possession, chase and catch - to make the point that you don't always need toys.
On film
dog. You can also just engage in personal play like that where
you got possession you got chase and catch you got all these different choices and so you don't
Kali
In a September session (published 9 Sep 2026) Kali isn't yet doing much with the ball or the tug; the trainer says he will keep trying them and push a little harder, but for now he works on progress through personal play.
On film
with the ball and the tug yet I'll keep trying it and pushing a little harder
with it but for right now I just want to see if I can make some progress doing
Milo
For Milo and Josi the trainer works on two tracks: training goes on with whatever reinforcer works, because he can't just play with the dogs and call it progress, and at the same time he keeps building their play, because play is a very powerful reinforcer and the harder they play the better.
On film
but i'm also at the same time working on their play yeah because if i can get them to play that's
a very powerful positive reinforcer for them and the harder I can get them to
Oscar
Keeping it fun over keeping it perfect: when Oscar wants to stalk, guard and play keep-away with the toy, the trainer lets him on a long line, because fetch doesn't have to be the perfect sequence every time - the point is to make it fun for the dog.
On film
uh so when we're playing fetch chase and catch you don't have to do that perfect sequence every time
right you can make it fun for the dog yeah right so if what they really want is to kind of guard
Phoebe
Play built a step at a time with Phoebe: the trainer runs with her on the long line while she carries the toy and counts it as progress that she holds it longer, because a dog who holds the toy longer is one step closer to holding it with a person on the other end.
On film
And then we ran and she held it the whole time until she dropped over there. So when they hold it for longer, that's good
We want them to hold it for longer, because if they hold it for longer, we're one step closer to them
Reaper
At a session filmed 1 Sep 2026 Reaper will run around with Kelton - some personal play - but doesn't really want a ball game yet. They are still working on it, because a dog who will play a full game makes things a lot easier; meanwhile he is focusing and exploring more.
On film
I mean, he'll run around with me, some engagement that way, like personal play.
We're still trying to get him to do that because it makes things a lot easier if they will play a full game.
Stormy
Across Stormy's private lessons (published March 2026) the family are told to keep her tearing toys apart - the harder she tugs, the more she'll want to chase - while the walk carries the training as her play motivation is built. The trainer is plain that some dogs never fully take to tug in a program; then contact, such as a jump-up on cue, carries much of the reward.
On film
the harder you can get her to tug the better the more she'll want to chase the ball or the stick
as we keep building her play motivation is going to be the walk okay because if i couldn't get a
haven't been able to really get them to play tug and there's sometimes when I go
through a program and the dog never really plays time doesn't really want to
Why it works
The trainers give three mechanisms, and they are different in kind.
The first explains why a dog has no game, and it comes in two versions. One is developmental: most dogs learn play as puppies, by being left alone with water and things to get into, and a dog who didn't have that never learned the category (watch, 08:31). The symptoms are behavioural and checkable. He won't chase a hose, won't get into a bucket, and can't yet tell whether play is fun or work (watch, 07:01 and 07:16). Egg's carers give the same history without a theory attached (watch, 53:32). The other is suppression: the biting and chasing were there and were shut down when the dog was a puppy (watch, 22:23), with a breed expectation layered on top (watch, 17:28). Nobody explains what suppression changes in the dog, or why reopening it takes months. Chunk's handlers give a household route to it: play that is stopped at home, or chewing that is corrected, suppresses some drive, which then has to be opened back up on the toy so the dog learns the difference (watch 05:34).
Play is competitive, and a dog who doesn't yet trust a person won't compete with him. Dolly 'doesn't want to directly compete with me yet' (watch, 07:53), and Callie's reluctance is read the same way (watch, 03:28). The fix follows from the cause. Make the toy act like prey moving away from you, so the dog can bite without confronting you (watch, 05:51). Build trust through time together, because 'they need to like you and they need to know that you like them... otherwise how are they going to ever play with you' (watch, 03:49). Kelton's version brings in a dog-friendly helper dog to 'open them up' (watch, 00:18). The same logic explains why Kodak's prior failed. The family knew a ball-mad dog. The trainer met a frightened one (watch, 20:30).
The third explains why the effort is worth it, and it is a claim about rate. It is made independently in three places: raise the capacity and the obedience comes much faster (watch, 04:38); the harder they play, the higher the motivation, the easier to train (watch, 10:01); a dog who plays catch or tug is the easiest dog to train (watch, 02:40). Kodak's trainer adds a more careful version. Early on the play isn't paying for obedience at all. It is building the cooperation the obedience will later run on, which is why obedience is kept out of it (watch, 09:20). What is inferred rather than stated: nobody explains why play speeds obedience up - more arousal, a better paycheck, more cooperation, or just more time together. And the record's own counter-evidence is strong. Every dog on film who was building play from nothing (Bullet, Egg, Bo, Callie) finished or carried on through their obedience work on freedom, sniffing and contact instead. The dogs whose play came quickly (Dolly, Kodak) seem to have had it already.
Where the trainers differ
Whether play capacity is really the rate-limiting variable for obedience.
One view
It is. Grow the game and the obedience follows much faster. Three trainers, on three dogs, say so independently.
On film
this is good the play will just get stronger and stronger after this now that he's finally going for the tug i just got to keep raising that capacity for him and his obedience is going to come along so much faster with that
so you want to get her to play hard so if you do this on a regular basis with something like this you get her to play harder and harder the harder they play the more they want it the higher their motivation is easier it is to train them
That's the easiest way to train a dog is if they like to play catch or they like to play tug or something like that
Another view
It is one route among several. When play isn't available you walk the dog, pay him with freedom, and train anyway. For some dogs freedom may always win.
On film
Um because the play session is the way that often if a dog is uh capable of like opening up and playing with you, um if not, we just have to go straight to the walk at first.
much about anything else. Treats, meh. Playing, that's all right. It's pretty good. But at the level of play that I've been able to get him to engage in so far, this right here is far superior. And I think it might always be.
Well, she likes freedom, so we're gonna use that for right now
How to read it
The strong version is contradicted by its own flagship case. Bullet's tug was raised on day six, was gone by day ten, and his obedience came anyway. Bo and Callie finished their programmes without a strong game. Nobody on film puts the two positions side by side.
Whether to teach through the game while it is still being built, or keep demands out of it.
One view
Keep obedience out of a new game. The play is building cooperation and a relationship first, and asking for commands inside it too early can cost you the game.
On film
what I don't want to do is start right now at this moment I don't want to start immediately integrating like too much obedience into the play because of his like super crazy nerve starting point I want to go ahead and like build up the play first build up a good relationship through the play build that cooperation
I'm not giving her any formal commands yet. Here. I just want to see if I can get her interested in the game a little bit stronger.
Another view
Put the game to work straight away. In a nervous dog's first lesson, the out is the first thing taught through the brand-new game, and place follows in the same lesson with the game restarting as the reward.
On film
thing we teach them because that's how you can start using games to teach but you can't teach
started back she restarted the game by doing the thing I asked so she both got
How to read it
The two may reflect different starting points. Dolly warmed up within minutes. Kodak had a 'super crazy nerve starting point'. Callie's game never got strong. Nobody on film states a rule for when a game is ready to carry obedience. Bullet's play collapsed during a week that mixed the two, but nobody on camera draws that link, and it is this reader's inference.
Is the missing game in the dog, or in the dog's relationship with the person offering it?
One view
In the dog. The category was never learned (Bullet, Egg) or was suppressed (Dolce), and it is a long project.
On film
do that yeah quit licking my legs so i just think it's lack of exposure like most of the time they learn that as puppies like you give them a bucket of water you let them play in the water and you just like leave it alone type thing um i just don't think he ever had that
Has he ever played? He has not played.
it's probably just because of when she's a puppy you should suppress it right so i'm trying to open her back up for the biting and like the mouthing and like stuff like that and like the chasing part
Another view
In the relationship. A dog who doesn't know or trust you won't compete with you, even if he plays at home. Fix the relationship and the game appears.
On film
holding it she's like no cuz she doesn't want to directly compete with me yet
training why because ideally for a training scenario you need to have a relationship with the dog you need to have trust with the dog they need to like you and they need to know that you like them right um otherwise how are they going to ever play with you
sometimes with dogs like this, like if I tried to play with him right now, oh, oh, that would be panic inducing for Kodak. He would be scared to death if I tried to play with him right now
How to read it
On film, the dogs where the relationship explanation fits turned around in one session. The dogs with a history explanation never reached a lasting toy game. For Kodak, the family had the answer all along: his life, they say, is all about balls.
Build the game you want, or use the one the dog already has.
One view
Manufacture it. Ball and tug are worth building on purpose, because they make the easiest dogs to train.
On film
Yeah. Yeah, he's okay with it. He likes ball, like, a little bit. I'm trying to work on it and get him to like it more.
trying to get his chase instincts going a little bit I want him to chase but because that would be helpful to get him to play chase and catch with me
Another view
Use what the dog already wants, whether that's a piece of wood, sniffing, or freedom, and don't fight his preferences.
On film
I think she likes that piece of wood more than she likes that. Yeah, that usually happens. But you can use that in her favor.
he likes to go smell everything that he can, so we're just going to use that and use the release to to freedom as his main reward until we can get him to play
How to read it
In practice the trainers do both at once. They pay with what the dog has and keep offering what they'd like him to have. The open question is when to stop offering. Bo's ball ran for five months without a recorded decision to drop it.
Common owner mistakes
- Deciding the dog doesn't play because he won't play with a new person. A dog who doesn't know you yet won't compete with you, and that says nothing about whether he can play.
On film
holding it she's like no cuz she doesn't want to directly compete with me yet
Dolly · Watch at 7:53 ↗ Maybe they don't want to compete with you directly yet.
Callie · Watch at 3:28 ↗ - Pushing the toy into a nervous dog's face instead of making it run away from you like prey.
On film
with me because she doesn't know me she's like oh right so if i just went and tried to shove the toy in her mouth she'd be like no thank you right but this this is away from me and it's behaving like like prey
Dolly · Watch at 5:45 ↗ - Always winning the tug, or always handing it over. Either way the game stops being fun, and a dog with little play to start with drops out first.
On film
because they have to know that they can win right otherwise if you get beat every time they just win no fun if they win every time also no fun if they win sometimes and they lose sometimes lots lots of fun.
Dolly · Watch at 11:36 ↗ another one is if the game is too easy and they win every time and they never even have to try the strategy they're doing
Dolce · Watch at 15:05 ↗ so make her she has to work for it yeah if you give it too easy they don't care
Dolly · Watch at 23:52 ↗ - Never offering a toy to a nervous dog, on the grounds that he's nervous. That guarantees the result you expected.
On film
Don't just assume that, oh, well, you know, they're kind of like fearful or they're kind of nervous so they won't do it. You don't know that. They might do it.
Kodak · Watch at 7:49 ↗ - Concluding a dog has no drive when he never learned what play is. The signs show up in ordinary life, not in the toy box.
On film
I try to spray him with the water hose, and he ain't like most dogs.
Bullet · Watch at 7:01 ↗ it and they'll run around and play yeah he's still like he's playing more than he was but he's still figuring out like what it is what it is yeah like he is this really supposed to be fun or is this part of the work like he didn't i don't like i don't think he ever played before
Bullet · Watch at 7:16 ↗ - Waiting for an object to work when you yourself are available. Personal play is treated as a real reward system, not a warm-up.
On film
oh it's a new personal play then oh we're gonna fight hand fight hand fight oh there's a little bitey that's good that's good
Bullet · Watch at 6:17 ↗ again it does work take them on long walks get them to do personal play and very often from there if you weren't able to get them to play with like say a ball or a tug toy or something like that this is a gateway drug right
Egg · Watch at 15:56 ↗ - Pushing the obedience harder when a dog goes flat, instead of noticing that the game has gone and going to get it back.
On film
it so um i'm gonna get him back playing tug and for now i think i'm just gonna take him
Bullet · Watch at 3:42 ↗ - Making the game bigger for a dog who is losing confidence in it, when it should be smaller.
On film
i've been doing some flirt pole work with her instead of like the full tug just to get her to want to do it more and like really get into it um because it's just more of a confidence thing where she gets like a little bored with it and she goes and don't really know and then she goes in and she gets like a little nervous with it
Dolce · Watch at 1:37 ↗
Questions owners ask
My dog doesn't play at all. Is he broken?
No. The trainers are careful about how they say this. The likeliest explanation offered on camera is a gap in what happened to him, not a fault in the dog. Most dogs learn to play as puppies, by being left with water and things to get into, and a dog who didn't have that never learned what play is. The signs are in ordinary life: he won't chase a hose or get into a bucket of water. When you try to play, he watches you, working out whether this is meant to be fun or part of the job. Two dogs in this record fit that picture, one a board-and-train dog and one a rescue whose carers said simply that he had never played. Both could be reached through personal play. Neither got to a lasting toy game on film. So it's a real project, and a slow one.
On film
do that yeah quit licking my legs so i just think it's lack of exposure like most of the time they learn that as puppies like you give them a bucket of water you let them play in the water and you just like leave it alone type thing um i just don't think he ever had that
Has he ever played? He has not played.
He plays with us at home but won't play with the trainer. Why?
Because play is competitive, and a dog won't compete with someone he doesn't trust yet. In one first lesson the trainer says exactly that about a nervous dog: she doesn't want to compete with me directly yet, because she doesn't know me. The fix was to make the toy move away like prey on a line, so she could bite it without facing the trainer, and within the lesson she was playing hard. Another trainer says the dog has to like you and know you like him, or how is he ever going to play with you. One trainer, meeting a frightened dog, thought play would panic him; his family's answer was that his life is all about balls. Tell your trainer what your dog plays with at home. It can change the plan.
On film
because you got to think like what do they want out of the play if the dog's too nervous to play with me because she doesn't know me
training why because ideally for a training scenario you need to have a relationship with the dog you need to have trust with the dog they need to like you and they need to know that you like them right um otherwise how are they going to ever play with you
sometimes with dogs like this, like if I tried to play with him right now, oh, oh, that would be panic inducing for Kodak. He would be scared to death if I tried to play with him right now
How do you teach a dog to play if no toy works?
You become the toy. On film that means hand fighting with a little mouthing allowed, chasing and being chased, noise, and being sent to another person. It's treated as a genuine reward system, not something you do until a proper toy turns up. For one trainer, long walks plus personal play are a 'gateway' to toy games. Keep offering objects inside that game, not in a separate test. Make the toy run away and move erratically so the dog has to work for it. Let him win some rounds and lose some. The first time one dog took a toy in his mouth, it happened during personal play.
On film
oh it's a new personal play then oh we're gonna fight hand fight hand fight oh there's a little bitey that's good that's good
again it does work take them on long walks get them to do personal play and very often from there if you weren't able to get them to play with like say a ball or a tug toy or something like that this is a gateway drug right
into personal play oh there we go first time he took it in his mouth yeah good job dude good job
because they have to know that they can win right otherwise if you get beat every time they just win no fun if they win every time also no fun if they win sometimes and they lose sometimes lots lots of fun.
Why bother? I just want him to behave.
Because the trainers believe the two are linked. Three of them, with three different dogs, say the same thing on camera: the harder a dog plays, the more motivated he is and the easier he is to train. A dog who likes catch or tug is 'the easiest way to train a dog'. The honest counterweight is also on film. Where play couldn't be built, the dog was paid with freedom and sniffing instead, and his obedience still arrived. One trainer even says freedom might always beat play for his dog. So play is the fast road, not the only one.
On film
so you want to get her to play hard so if you do this on a regular basis with something like this you get her to play harder and harder the harder they play the more they want it the higher their motivation is easier it is to train them
That's the easiest way to train a dog is if they like to play catch or they like to play tug or something like that
much about anything else. Treats, meh. Playing, that's all right. It's pretty good. But at the level of play that I've been able to get him to engage in so far, this right here is far superior. And I think it might always be.
My dog is fearful. Is play even appropriate for him?
The record says try. One very nervous dog was expected to panic if anyone tried to play with him. A few days later his trainer carried toys anyway, and four minutes in he threw away his plan and spent the session playing ball. The rule he draws is short: always take some stuff with you and try it, and don't let 'fearful' or 'nervous' decide for you. The second half matters as much. With that dog he kept commands out of the game at first, because the play was building a relationship, not paying for behaviour.
On film
This is why you should always take some stuff with you and try it, right? Because it can totally change your approach. Try tug, try ball, try stuff.
what I don't want to do is start right now at this moment I don't want to start immediately integrating like too much obedience into the play because of his like super crazy nerve starting point I want to go ahead and like build up the play first build up a good relationship through the play build that cooperation
He used to play and he has stopped. What does that mean?
The trainers treat it as a problem in its own right, not a mood, and they don't push through it. In one session the trainer notices the hard tug is gone, calls it a bit of shutdown he can't explain, and stops the session. His prescription is time together, not repetitions: more time just chilling and bonding. His stated aim is to get the tug back before anything else resumes. Another time the same dog was brought a friendly, playful dog to get him 'having fun again' before any training. If your dog has gone flat, the useful question isn't how to make him work but what happened to the game. One household cause is named on film: play stopped at home, or chewing corrected, can suppress the drive a little; the answer is to open it back up on the toy.
On film
it um i think i need to spend a little bit more time just chilling with him and bonding
uh because i had him playing tug really hard before and i want to get that hard tug playing
Zuti over for me and we're going to see if they want to play together. And if they do, that would be really useful because I can get them to play together.
so then you end up suppressing that drive a little bit which is It's fine for like the couch stuff, but then you have to open it back up with the toy part, so they start learning the difference.
How long does it take?
It depends on which problem you have. A nervous dog who just needs to trust you can turn around in one lesson. A dog who never played took six days to tug, and then lost it. A dog whose play was suppressed as a puppy was still being worked on months in, and her trainer told the family he could put a date on the obedience but not on the chase and bite work, because that part depends on her confidence. That's as honest an answer as the record gives: the timeline belongs to the dog, and it doesn't always finish. On a first day, one trainer's plan is simply the next couple of days on the game and confidence before any obedience, ending each round as soon as the dog's confidence rises.
On film
So you can see that when I first brought it out, she didn't even really want it. And now she's really into the game.
it took like six or seven days for me to get bullet to play tug with me right at first he just totally ignored me didn't care at all then little by little i started getting him to do personal play like day four or five and it took until day six for me to get him to like fully open up
so for the obedience and proofing that we'll have that part done by probably next week for that stuff the chasing and for like the bite in the defense I'll know more by the end of this week for that because like I said I just I it's just based off her her confidence
so what we're going to do is just over the next couple days we're just going to spend our time building that game up and building the confidence up
So we're going to end it there, because her confidence went up a little bit
The lesson
The goal
The handler can tell a dog who won't play with this person from a dog who has never played or had play suppressed. The handler can open a first game with prey-like movement or personal play, keep it fun with fair wins and no early demands, protect it once it exists, and fall back to freedom or the dog's own preferred object without abandoning the project.
Learn first
See it done
- A nervous dog and a stranger: the toy on a line runs away like prey, and she goes from not wanting it to head-shaking within the lesson. Watch at 5:41 ↗
- Personal play run as the reward system, with mouthing welcomed rather than corrected. Watch at 6:17 ↗
- A five-day search pays off, inside the personal play rather than in a separate drill. Watch at 0:43 ↗
- The never-played diagnosis, given to the owners from everyday observations rather than a toy test. Watch at 7:16 ↗
- A plan thrown away four minutes in because a fearful dog turned out to play. Watch at 6:55 ↗
- A session abandoned because the game has gone, with the reasoning given out loud. Watch at 2:54 ↗
The drill
First, find out what he plays with at home and who with (Kodak; watch 56:19). If he's wary of you, put the toy on a line and make it run away from you like prey. Don't hold it out or push it at him, and let him bite it without facing you. Once he's biting, make it competitive, and let him win some rounds and lose some (watch 05:51, 07:14, 11:36). If no toy works at all, start with yourself: get low, hand-fight, let a little mouthing happen, run so he follows, make noise, and have someone send him back and forth between you (watch 06:17). With a dog who has never played, long walks and personal play come first, as the gateway (watch 15:56). Keep a solid toy on you and offer it inside the game. Change it if it's the wrong toy, because a hard-mouthed dog may want a much stronger toy (watch 06:16). While the game is new, ask for nothing (watch 04:07; watch 09:20). Or, if he warms up fast, start with the out and restart the game on 'okay' (watch 10:39). Run it often and keep it short. If last week's play is weaker this week, stop the obedience and rebuild the game with bonding time (watch 02:54, 03:06). If the dog clearly prefers something else, like sniffing, a stick or a piece of wood, pay with that while you keep offering the game (watch 09:36; watch 15:08).
Watch out for
- Recording 'no play drive' after a stranger's toy offer fails, when the dog may just not want to compete with that person yet (watch 07:53; watch 03:28).
- Shoving the toy at a nervous dog (watch 05:45).
- Always winning, or always letting him win (watch 11:36; watch 15:01, 15:05).
- Deciding a nervous dog won't play, so never testing it (watch 07:49).
- Making the game bigger for a dog losing confidence in it, instead of smaller (watch 01:37).
- Missing the loss of the game and pushing the obedience through a flat dog (watch 03:06).
- Correcting the leg-biting that personal play produces.
Check yourself
A dog has refused your toys for three sessions. What do you check before you call it a capacity problem, and what do you try next? (Check whether he plays with his family, and whether he's refusing to compete with you rather than refusing play. Ask what he does with water, chase and rough-housing. Then try a prey-like toy that runs away from you, or become the toy yourself, with no demands attached.)
